Hiroshima

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki: How to Order, How to Eat It, and Where to Go First

Neon signs of Okonomimura, the okonomiyaki building in central Hiroshima
Kai
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Quick answer: For your first time, go to Okonomimura in central Hiroshima or Ekimae Hiroba next to Hiroshima Station. Both have many shops under one roof and most have English menus. Order the basic soba niku-tama (noodles, pork and egg), sit at the hot plate, and eat it straight off the grill with the little spatula.

My family is from Hiroshima, I used to live there, and I still visit several times a year. Here’s what a first-timer needs to know about the city’s favorite food.

What makes Hiroshima okonomiyaki different?

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki layered with cabbage and noodles on a hot iron plate

In Osaka, okonomiyaki is a batter mixed with cabbage and cooked as one pancake. In Hiroshima, it’s layered:

  1. A thin crepe-like batter
  2. A big pile of shredded cabbage, bean sprouts and pork
  3. Fried noodles (soba or udon)
  4. An egg underneath it all
  5. Sweet-savory okonomiyaki sauce, aonori seaweed and mayonnaise (optional) on top

It’s tall, crispy on the outside and soft inside, and it’s a full meal.

By the way: people outside Hiroshima sometimes call it “Hiroshima-yaki.” In Hiroshima, it’s just called okonomiyaki.

Where to go first

Hiroshima has hundreds of okonomiyaki shops. For a first visit, I recommend one of the two “okonomiyaki buildings,” where many shops are gathered in one place.

Okonomimura (お好み村)

A building in the Shintenchi area of central Hiroshima, near Hondori shopping street, with around 20 small okonomiyaki counters across several floors. It’s lively, especially at night (look for the neon sign), and convenient after visiting the Peace Park area.

Ekimae Hiroba (ひろしまお好み物語 駅前ひろば)

A floor of 13 okonomiyaki shops right by Hiroshima Station, open from 10:00 to 23:00. Perfect if you arrive by train or want to eat before leaving.

Why these two? Most shops have English menus, you can walk around and pick whichever counter has a free seat, and the staff are used to first-timers.

Not sure which shop? Pick one where locals are eating, or simply the one with an empty seat at the counter. All of them know what they’re doing.

How to order

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki layered with noodles and cabbage
Photo: Romeo A. / Unsplash

Start with the classic:

Soba niku-tama (そば肉玉) — soba noodles, pork and egg. This is the standard Hiroshima okonomiyaki and what I always order.

Once you know you like it, try variations:

  • Udon instead of soba
  • Squid tempura (ika-ten) or green onion (negi) toppings, both popular with locals
  • Oysters in winter (Hiroshima is famous for them)
  • Cheese, mochi or double noodles if you’re hungry

How to eat it like a local

  • Sit at the hot plate (teppan). The counter seats in front of the grill are the best: you watch it being made, and it stays hot until the last bite.
  • Eat it with the spatula (hera). Locals cut a piece and eat it straight from the small metal spatula. Chopsticks and a plate are fine too; just ask.
  • One per person is a lot. A single okonomiyaki is big and filling. If you want to try more than one kind, share.

FAQ

Is it vegetarian-friendly? Not by default (pork, and the sauce and batter may contain animal products). Some shops can leave out the meat; ask.

How much does it cost? Usually around ¥1,000–1,500 for a basic one, more with toppings.

Do I need a reservation? Not at Okonomimura or Ekimae Hiroba. Popular counters may have a short wait at peak dinner time.

ABOUT THE WRITER
Kaz
Kaz
Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima
I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.
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