Miyoshi, Hiroshima: Winery, Spicy Karamen, a Yokai Museum and the Bihoku Winter Lights
Kai
Setouchi Notes
Onomichi Guide: Senkoji Ropeway, Temple Walk, Cat Alley and Onomichi Ramen
Kai
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Quick answer: Take the Senkoji Ropeway up (¥500 one way), enjoy the view from the PEAK deck, then walk down through Senkoji Temple, the slopes and Cat Alley. Finish with a bowl of Onomichi ramen — soy broth with chunks of pork back fat. Half a day covers the highlights; stay a night to add the Temple Walk and the start of the Shimanami Kaido.
Onomichi is a hillside port town on the Hiroshima coast, squeezed between steep slopes covered in temples and a narrow channel full of boats. It’s also the start of the Shimanami Kaido. I’ve been to Onomichi, and the ropeway, Senkoji and the steep lanes back down are the parts I’d recommend most — followed by a bowl of ramen.
Getting there
- From Hiroshima: about 80 minutes on the JR Sanyo Line (local trains), no change needed.
- From Fukuyama: about 20 minutes by JR.
- By Shinkansen: Shin-Onomichi Station is outside the town; take the bus to the centre (about 15 minutes, ¥190).
Everything below is within walking distance of JR Onomichi Station.
Senkoji Ropeway and the PEAK deck
The easiest way up the hill:
- Fare: ¥500 one way, ¥700 return (children ¥250 / ¥350).
- Hours: 9:00–17:15, every 15 minutes; the ride takes about 3 minutes.
- At the top, the PEAK observation deck (renovated in 2022) gives the classic view over the town, the channel and the islands.
Tip: ride up, walk down. Going downhill, you pass the temple and the lanes with the town spread out below you.
Senkoji Temple and the slopes
Senkoji Temple, founded in 806, sits on the hillside just below the summit. Entry is free.
Below it, narrow stone lanes and steps wind down between old houses and temples. This is the Onomichi people come for — take your time and expect stairs.
Cat Alley (Neko no Hosomichi)
A short lane (about 200 m) near the ropeway’s lower station, lined with stones painted as cats. Nearby is a small museum of beckoning-cat (maneki-neko) figures.
The Temple Walk
If you have more time, follow the Temple Walk (Koji Meguri): a 2.5 km route linking 25 temples along the hillside. You don’t need to do all of it — pick a section between the station and Senkoji.
Onomichi City Museum of Art
In Senkoji Park, about 4 minutes’ walk from the ropeway’s top station. The building was renovated in 2003 to a design by Tadao Ando. Usually closed on Mondays; exhibitions and fees vary.
Onomichi ramen
Onomichi ramen is a soy-sauce broth topped with little chunks of pork back fat. It’s what I’d recommend for lunch here.
A few names to look for:
- Chuka Soba Shu — carries on the flavour of the famous Shukaen, which closed in 2019.
- Ichibankan — known for its braised pork belly ramen.
- Tani — inside JR Onomichi Station, handy before a train.
Popular shops have queues at lunchtime, and many close one day a week — check before you go.
The shopping arcade and the waterfront
A long covered arcade (about 1.6 km) runs parallel to the waterfront, with old shops, cafés and souvenir stores. Down by the water, ONOMICHI U2 is a converted 1939 warehouse with a cycle-friendly hotel, restaurants and a bakery — the natural starting point if you’re cycling the Shimanami Kaido.
Crossing to Mukaishima
Small ferries cross the channel to Mukaishima in a few minutes. The Ekimae Ferry near the station costs ¥100 (plus ¥10 for a bicycle, cash only). (The old Fukumoto Ferry closed in 2025.) For taking a car across, see Island-Hopping by Car Ferry. For fishing around Onomichi and the islands, see A Fishing Trip on the Shimanami Kaido.
How long to spend
- Half a day: ropeway, PEAK, Senkoji, the lanes, Cat Alley, ramen.
- One night: add the Temple Walk, the arcade, U2 and an evening by the water, then start the Shimanami Kaido the next morning.
FAQ
Is Onomichi hilly?
Very. Ride the ropeway up and walk down to save your legs.
Can I do Onomichi as a day trip from Hiroshima?
Yes — it’s about 80 minutes by local train.
Where’s the famous Shukaen ramen?
It closed in 2019. Chuka Soba Shu continues its flavour.
ABOUT THE WRITER
I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.
