Etajima Guide: Touring the Former Imperial Navy Academy, Island Drives, Olives and Oysters

Quick answer: Etajima is an island across the bay from Kure and Hiroshima, best known for the former Imperial Japanese Naval Academy, now a Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force school. Free 90-minute tours run on weekdays at 11:15, 13:30 and 15:15 (plus 9:30 at weekends) — no booking needed, but arrive 30 minutes early and bring your passport. Get there by high-speed boat from Hiroshima Port (about 22 minutes) or Kure (about 10 minutes), or drive across the bridges from Kure. On the island, a car makes everything easier.

I’ve been to Etajima many times — by car across the bridges from Kure and by boat from Hiroshima and Kure. I’ve done the Naval Academy tour, driven around the island, eaten the local olives and oysters, and combined it with Kure’s Yamato Museum. Here’s how to plan your own visit.

The former Imperial Japanese Naval Academy

From 1888 to 1945, this was where officers of the Imperial Japanese Navy were trained. Today it’s the JMSDF 1st Service School, still a working military school, and the grounds are open to the public only on guided tours.

The tour takes you past the red-brick Cadets’ Hall and through the Education Reference Hall, a museum of naval history with letters and belongings of the young men who died in the war. The buildings and exhibits made a strong impression on me.

Tour times (2026)

• No advance booking for individuals. Register at the main gate, from 30 minutes before the start.
• The tour is about 90 minutes and 1.5 km on foot. You can’t leave partway through.
• Free. Tours are guided in Japanese.
• No photos inside the Education Reference Hall.
• Dress code: avoid tank tops, shorts, sandals and high heels.
• Bring your passport — foreign visitors in Japan are required to carry it anyway.
• Tours can be cancelled for training, school events, disaster relief or typhoons. Check the official website the day before.

My main tip: the tour times are fixed, so plan your day around them. Check the times and work backwards to choose your boat or driving time. Many older guidebooks list times that have since changed.

Getting to Etajima

By boat

From Koyo port it’s about 7 minutes by taxi to the Naval Academy, or a short bus ride. The Kure pier is right next to the Yamato Museum.

By car

From Kure, drive across the Ondo Bridge to Kurahashi Island, then the Hayase Bridge to Etajima. The Hayase Bridge has had long-running repair work, so check for traffic restrictions before you go. You can also take your car on the Kure–Koyo ferry.

I’d recommend a car for the island itself. Buses on Etajima are infrequent, and the sights, ports and viewpoints are spread out. See Renting a Car in Shikoku — the same tips apply in Hiroshima.

Driving around the island

Etajima is joined to Nomi Island, and roads run along the sea around both. I’ve driven around the island on my visits, and the coastal roads are beautiful. But most roads on the island are narrow, so drive carefully and take your time — see Driving in Rural Shikoku for tips on narrow roads.

Island food: olives and oysters

• Olives: Etajima started growing olives around 2010, and today you can buy local olive oil and olive products on the island.
• Oysters: the waters around Etajima and Kure are one of Hiroshima’s main oyster areas, and there are oyster huts and restaurants on the island in winter. Note: in late 2025, many Hiroshima oyster farms lost a large part of their stock, so check that a place is open before you go. See Hiroshima Oysters Guide.

Combine it with Kure

I’ve combined Etajima with Kure, and together they make a full day for anyone interested in naval history:

1. Morning: Kure’s Yamato Museum (reopened April 2026; ¥1,000; closed Tuesdays) and the JMSDF museum next door.
2. Lunch: navy curry in Kure.
3. Early afternoon: high-speed boat from Kure to Koyo (10 minutes).
4. 13:30 or 15:15: Naval Academy tour.
5. Evening: boat back to Kure or straight to Hiroshima Port.

See Kure Day Trip from Hiroshima for the Kure side.

FAQ

Do I need to book the Etajima tour?
No. Individuals just register at the main gate, from 30 minutes before the tour.

Is the tour in English?
No, it’s in Japanese, but the buildings and exhibits are still worth seeing.

How do I get to Etajima from Hiroshima?
High-speed boat from Hiroshima Port to Koyo, about 22 minutes (¥1,130).

Can I take photos?
Not inside the Education Reference Hall. Outdoors, follow the guide’s instructions.

Tour times and boat fares checked on the official JMSDF and Setouchi Sea Line websites on 24 October 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.