Shimanami Kaido: Bicycle or Car? A Local’s Honest Comparison (Plus the Ferry Option)

Quick answer: The Shimanami Kaido links Onomichi (Hiroshima) and Imabari (Ehime) across six islands and seven bridges. By bicycle it’s one of the world’s great rides: about 70 km, toll-free for cyclists until March 2028, with rental bikes you can drop off at the other end. By car it’s faster and lets you cover more ground, but you have to leave the expressway to really see the islands. And if you have a car, taking a car ferry to the islands is a fun extra.

I’ve crossed the Shimanami Kaido by car and have taken my car on the ferry from Imabari out to the islands. I haven’t ridden the full route by bike, so the cycling part of this guide is based on research.

What is the Shimanami Kaido?

A 60 km chain of bridges and roads between Onomichi on Honshu and Imabari on Shikoku, hopping across six islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It has an expressway for cars and a separate, well-marked cycling and walking route with ramps up to each bridge. For the Ehime end of the route, see my Imabari guide.

Bicycle vs. car at a glance

Option 1: by bicycle

This is how most international visitors want to do it, and for good reason. You ride over the bridges with the sea far below, through citrus groves and small fishing towns.

Rental bikes. The official rental service (Shimanami Japan) has terminals in Onomichi, Imabari and on the islands. A crossbike costs ¥2,500 a day, which includes a ¥1,100 deposit that’s refunded if you return the bike where you rented it. You can also drop the bike off at a different terminal, so riding one way is easy (you just don’t get the deposit back). E-bikes are available too. Book online from one month to three days ahead; bikes can sell out early on weekends and in peak seasons.

One day or two? Fit cyclists ride it in a day. For most people, two days with a night on one of the islands is much more enjoyable.

Toll-free for cyclists. Bridge tolls for bicycles are waived until at least March 31, 2028.

Option 2: by car (what I usually do)

My main tip: get off the expressway. If you just drive straight through, you’ll mostly see bridges and tunnels. Leave at an island interchange and use the island roads to reach the viewpoints, towns and beaches.

Where I usually stop:

• Ikuchijima — the colorful Kosanji Temple and lemon everything (Setoda is famous for its lemons: lemon cake, lemon drinks).
• Roadside stations (michi-no-eki) and service areas — local citrus, seafood and snacks from each island.

Also worth adding if you have time:

• Kirosan Observatory on Oshima — the famous view over the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge, especially at sunset.
• Onomichi — the hillside temple town at the Hiroshima end.

Watch out for:

• Lots of cyclists. On the island roads, give bikes plenty of room and be patient when overtaking.
• Some interchanges are one-way only. A few island interchanges only let you get on or off in one direction. Check your map before you leave the expressway.

Option 3: the car ferry (a local’s secret)

If you have a car, try taking it on a ferry from Imabari Port to the islands. I’ve done this, and I recommend it for three reasons:

1. It feels like a real island trip. Driving onto the ferry and crossing by sea is a completely different experience from the bridges.
2. You can reach islands that aren’t on the bridge route. The Seto Inland Sea has many small islands without bridges.
3. It can be cheaper than the expressway for some trips, because you skip the bridge tolls.

Check ferry timetables in advance; sailings are not frequent and some routes stop early in the evening.

Which should you choose?

• Choose the bike if the ride itself is the point of your trip, you’re reasonably fit, and the weather looks good.
• Choose the car if you’re traveling with family, have limited time, or want to combine the Shimanami Kaido with other parts of Shikoku.
• Add the ferry if you have a car and a spare half-day. If you fish, see A Fishing Trip on the Shimanami Kaido.

FAQ

Can I do the Shimanami Kaido without cycling the whole way? Yes. Ride one or two bridges, drop the bike off and take a bus back, or drive and rent a bike on one island.

What’s the best season? Spring and autumn: comfortable temperatures and less wind than winter. Summer is very hot for cycling.

Is it hilly? The island roads are mostly flat, but each bridge has a long, gentle ramp up to the deck.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.