Uchiko and Ozu: Ehime’s Old Towns in a Day from Matsuyama (Uchiko-za Closure, Ozu Castle, Garyu Sanso)

Quick answer: Uchiko and Ozu are two historic towns about 25–45 minutes south-west of Matsuyama by express train, easy to combine in one day. In Uchiko, walk the Yokaichi-Gokoku street of white-walled merchant houses. Note: the famous Uchiko-za kabuki theatre is closed for repairs until around the end of 2028 (only the backstage building is open). In Ozu, see the wooden Ozu Castle (¥550) and the riverside villa Garyu Sanso (¥550; ¥880 together). By car, Uchiko is about 30 minutes from Matsuyama.

I live in Tokushima, and I’ve driven to Uchiko and walked its old merchant street. I haven’t visited Ozu’s sights myself yet, so for Ozu I’ve relied on the official information. Here’s how to plan a day.

Getting there

Uchiko and Iyo-Ozu stations are about 15 minutes apart by local train (¥330). The airport bus to Uchiko is currently suspended.

By car is how I went. Uchiko is about 25 minutes from Matsuyama IC to Uchiko-Ikazaki IC on the Matsuyama Expressway, then about 5 minutes to the old town. See Renting a Car in Shikoku.

Uchiko

Uchiko grew rich in the late Edo and Meiji periods from Japanese wax (mokuro), made from the berries of the wax tree. The money built the merchant houses you see today.

Yokaichi-Gokoku old street

The heart of the town is a street of about 600 metres lined with white plaster walls, latticed windows and heavy tiled roofs. In 1982 it became the first nationally protected historic townscape in Shikoku.

I’ve walked this street myself.

• About 15 minutes’ walk from JR Uchiko Station.
• By car, use the paid town car park near the street (it also rents bicycles).

Kami-Haga Residence and the Japan Wax Museum

One of the largest houses on the street belonged to a wax-making family. You can see the house and the old wax workshop, with a museum explaining how the wax was made.

• Admission: ¥500. 9:00–16:30.
• Set ticket: ¥700 for Kami-Haga Residence, the Uchiko-za backstage and the Museum of Commerce and Domestic Life.

Uchiko-za (closed for repairs)

Uchiko-za is a wooden kabuki theatre built in 1916, and normally one of the town’s main sights. It closed in September 2024 for about four years of preservation and earthquake-proofing work, due to finish around the end of 2028.

• Only the backstage building is open (¥200).
• Occasional tours of the repair site are held (in Japanese, by lottery).

Many guides still list it as open, so don’t build your day around it.

Uchiko Fresh Park Karari

A roadside station just outside town, selling local produce and food. Open 8:00–17:00, with free parking — a good stop if you’re driving.

Ozu

Ozu is a castle town on the Hiji River, about 15 minutes beyond Uchiko. I haven’t visited these sights myself; the details below are from the official sources.

Ozu Castle

Ozu Castle’s main keep was rebuilt in wood in 2004 using traditional methods, based on old drawings and photographs — rare in Japan, where most rebuilt castles are concrete.

• Admission: ¥550. Open every day, 9:00–17:00.
• Set tickets: with Garyu Sanso ¥880; with Garyu Sanso and Bansenso ¥1,100.
• From JR Iyo-Ozu Station: about 10 minutes by taxi or 30 minutes on foot.
• Castle Stay: you can actually spend the night in the castle — at about ¥1.32 million per night for two.

Garyu Sanso

A villa and garden on a bend of the Hiji River, built by a wealthy merchant around 1900, with a small teahouse, Furoan, perched over the river rocks. Its thatched roof was repaired in 2025.

• Admission: ¥550 (or ¥880 with the castle). Open every day, 9:00–17:00.

Cormorant fishing (summer)

From 1 June to 20 September, Ozu has cormorant fishing on the Hiji River in the evening, watched from boats (from ¥4,000). The 2026 season has ended; check next year’s dates.

Staying in Ozu

Several old houses in the castle town have been restored as a single hotel spread across the town, NIPPONIA HOTEL Ozu Castle Town.

A one-day plan (by car or train)

1. Morning: Uchiko. Walk Yokaichi-Gokoku and visit Kami-Haga Residence.
2. Lunch: in Uchiko, or at the Karari roadside station.
3. Afternoon: Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso (buy the ¥880 set ticket).
4. Evening: back to Matsuyama, or stay in Ozu.

See Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama for your base.

FAQ

Is Uchiko-za open?
No. It’s closed for repairs until around the end of 2028. Only the backstage building is open.

How do I get from Matsuyama to Uchiko?
About 25 minutes by limited express train, or about 30 minutes by car.

Can I visit Uchiko and Ozu in one day?
Yes. They’re about 15 minutes apart by train.

Is Ozu Castle original?
The keep was rebuilt in wood in 2004, using traditional methods.

Opening times, fees and the Uchiko-za closure checked on the official Uchiko, Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso websites on 25 October 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.