Hiroshima Nightlife: Nagarekawa, Yagenbori and Ebisu-dori — Izakaya Basics, Late-Night Okonomiyaki, Touts and the Last Tram (22:53)

Quick answer: Hiroshima’s main night-out area is Nagarekawa, together with neighbouring Yagenbori and Shintenchi, a short walk from the Hatchobori tram stop and Ebisu-dori shopping street. From Hiroshima Station (tram stop now on the 2nd floor of the station building), take tram line 1, 2 or 6 to Hatchobori — about 7 minutes, ¥240 flat. Expect an otoshi (a small dish that doubles as a table charge) at izakaya, carry cash, and ignore street touts. The last tram back to the station leaves Hatchobori at 22:53.

My family is from Hiroshima, and I often go out in Nagarekawa and along Ebisu-dori. I’ve drunk at izakaya there, eaten okonomiyaki late at night, and been to bars. The venues, food tours, festival and practical details below are what I’ve researched.

Where to go: Nagarekawa, Yagenbori and Ebisu-dori

• Nagarekawa (流川) — Hiroshima’s tourism site calls it the biggest entertainment district in the Chugoku and Shikoku regions. It’s the main area for izakaya and bars. The nearest tram stop is Ebisu-cho.
• Yagenbori (薬研堀) and Shintenchi (新天地) — right next to Nagarekawa and part of the same downtown area.
• Hatchobori (八丁堀) and Ebisu-dori (えびす通り) — the Hatchobori stop is by Ebisu-dori shopping street, Fukuya department store, Hiroshima PARCO and Okonomimura. Hondori and Kamiyacho are within walking distance.

A bit of history: Hatchobori was once the castle’s eastern outer moat, filled in to make way for the tramway. Fukuya opened there in 1929.

One thing you won’t find: unlike Fukuoka, Hiroshima has no permanent yatai (street-stall) area. You’ll only see stalls at festivals and events.

Getting there from Hiroshima Station

The new Loop Line (L), added in March 2026, runs only in the daytime and doesn’t serve the station, so it’s no use for a night out. More in Hiroshima Streetcar Guide.

Izakaya basics

• Otoshi: a small dish arrives before you order. It doubles as a table charge and can’t be swapped. It’s often around ¥500–700 (a 2019 figure; prices vary).
• Kanpai: wait until everyone has toasted before you drink.
• Pouring: pour for others rather than yourself — older or senior people first. Using both hands is good manners.
• Cash vs card: carry cash — going by venue listings, many small bars don’t take cards. Some places do: the craft beer pubs Harebare and KeMBY’s accept cards.

What to order

• Oysters — Hiroshima’s best-known seafood. I often order oysters when I’m out here. For when they’re in season and the ways they’re served, see Hiroshima Oysters Guide.
• Local sake — ask for jizake (地酒), sake from the area.
• Okonomiyaki, late — Okonomimura (お好み村), on floors 2–4 of Shintenchi Plaza, has about 25 okonomiyaki shops, about 3 minutes’ walk from Hatchobori. Hours and closing days vary by shop, so don’t count on every counter being open late. See Hiroshima Okonomiyaki Guide.

Bars

Nagarekawa has everything from tiny counter bars to craft beer. For beer, RAKU BEER in Nagarekawa has 15 taps of Japanese craft beer (closed on Tuesdays, according to listings), and KeMBY’s Brew Pub near Peace Park is listed as open until after midnight (check — its site also showed temporary hours). Full details in Craft Beer in Setouchi.

Snack bars (スナック) are small bars run by a host, usually with a seat charge. Ask the price before you sit down.

Touts: just keep walking

Ignore street touts and never follow one into a bar. In December 2025 the local newspaper reported that Hiroshima police are stepping up action against illegal touting in Nagarekawa and Yagenbori. Choose places yourself, and if there’s no menu with prices, ask before ordering.

Getting back: the last tram is 22:53

Some English blogs say the last tram is around 23:25–23:30. That’s wrong — Hiroden’s official timetable says 22:53 from Hatchobori. After that, take a taxi or walk back (roughly 20 minutes, my estimate).

Ebisu Shrine and the Ebessan festival (18–20 November)

Ebisu Shrine (胡子神社) stands in Ebisu-machi, near Hatchobori. Its festival, the Ebisu Taisai — known locally as Ebessan or Ebisu-ko — has been held for about 400 years and takes place every year on 18–20 November. In 2026 that’s Wednesday 18 to Friday 20 November.

In 2025 there were bargain sales in the shopping streets, komazarae lucky rakes for sale, and on the evening of the 20th, Chuo-dori became a pedestrian zone (19:15–22:00) with kagura and taiko drumming, free to watch. The 2026 programme hadn’t been published when I checked, so look for it nearer the time. Expect crowds.

Evening food tours

If you’d like a local guide for your first night, these 3-hour tours run in the Hatchobori/Nagarekawa area:

Where to stay

If you’re going out in Nagarekawa, staying near Hatchobori means you can walk back after the last tram. See Where to Stay in Hiroshima.

See also: Hiroshima Oysters Guide · Tsukemen and Soupless Tantanmen · Craft Beer in Setouchi

FAQ

How do I get to Nagarekawa from Hiroshima Station?
Take tram line 1, 2 or 6 from the stop on the station’s 2nd floor to Hatchobori — about 7 minutes, ¥240. Nagarekawa is a short walk from there; the nearest stop is Ebisu-cho.

What time is the last tram back to Hiroshima Station?
22:53 from Hatchobori and 22:54 from Ebisu-cho, every day. Ignore blogs that say 23:25.

What is the otoshi charge?
A small dish served before you order that doubles as a table charge — often around ¥500–700. You can’t swap it.

Is Nagarekawa safe?
It’s a busy entertainment district. Ignore street touts, never follow one into a bar, and ask prices before you order. Police have been cracking down on illegal touting there since 2025.

When is the Ebessan festival in 2026?
18–20 November 2026 (Wednesday to Friday), at Ebisu Shrine near Hatchobori.

Tram fares and times, festival dates and tour prices checked on the official Hiroden, Hiroshima City, Dive! Hiroshima and tour-operator websites on 1 November 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.