How to Order Sanuki Udon at a Self-Service Shop in Kagawa (Step by Step, with the Words You Need)

Quick answer: At a Kagawa self-service (セルフ) udon shop, you take a tray, order your udon and size at the counter, add tempura or rice balls yourself, pay, and then pour your own broth and add free toppings. Order a small (1 tama) so you can try several shops in a day. Bring cash, and go before lunchtime ends — many shops close in the early afternoon or when the noodles run out. My favourite is the simplest: kake, noodles in hot broth.

I’ve eaten at self-service udon shops in Kagawa more times than I can count. For a first-time visitor they can be confusing, and every shop works a little differently. Here’s how it works, step by step.

One thing I’d tell every first-timer: the way you order is different at every shop, so don’t worry about getting it wrong. Some owners look gruff and don’t say much, but in my experience most of them are actually kind. Don’t be intimidated — just ask, and they’ll show you what to do. And a personal rule of thumb: the more run-down a shop looks, the better the udon tends to be. Not always, but it’s worth keeping in mind.

Why self-service?

Kagawa is Japan’s udon prefecture, and many of its best shops are small, no-frills places that started as noodle factories. Self-service keeps them fast and cheap: a simple bowl often costs only a few hundred yen. Kagawa residents spend, on average, only about ¥550 per udon meal including side dishes.

How to order, step by step

Shops vary, but this is the most common pattern.

1. Take a tray and join the queue.
2. Order at the counter: say the type of udon and the size (see below). For example, “Kake, shō” — kake, small.
3. Add sides yourself: take tempura, oden or rice balls (onigiri) from the trays with tongs and put them on a plate.
4. Pay at the register. At most shops you pay before you eat. Some shops are cash only, so carry coins and small notes.
5. Warm your noodles (if needed): at some shops you’re handed cold noodles. Put them in a tebo (a long-handled strainer), dip them in the hot water for a few seconds, then shake and tip them into your bowl.
6. Pour your own broth from the tank or tap. Careful: there’s often a tap for tea next to the broth tap.
7. Add free toppings: spring onion, grated ginger, tempura crumbs (tenkasu) and sesame are usually free.
8. Eat, then return your tray and dishes to the return counter. Sort them if there’s a sign. At busy times, don’t linger.

I’ve used both kinds of shop: ones where you warm the noodles and pour the broth yourself, and ones where you order at the counter, pick up tempura and pay at the end. If you’re unsure, just watch the person in front of you and copy them.

The words you need

Hot or cold: hiya and atsu

Hiya (ひや) means cold and atsu (あつ) means hot. The first word is the noodles, the second is the broth:

Cold noodles are firmer and chewier; hot noodles are softer.

Types of udon

Sizes: count in tama

Udon is sold by the tama (玉), one portion of noodles. Usually shō (小, small) = 1 tama, dai (大, large) = 2, and toku (特, extra large) = 3. But the amount per tama varies by shop, so look at the menu board.

Tips from a regular

• Go in the morning or before lunchtime ends. Many shops open from morning until early afternoon, and close when the noodles sell out. Check opening days before you go.
• Order small and visit several shops. One tama is enough to taste a shop, so you can try two or three in a day. An “udon crawl” like this is the best way to compare shops.
• Add tempura or a rice ball. Plain udon plus one or two sides from the tempura trays is the typical local way to eat.
• Learn hiya, atsu, kake and kamaage. With these four words, you can order at almost any shop.
• Bring cash. I’ve been to shops that only take cash.

No car?

Many famous shops are in the countryside, so a car is the easiest way to do an udon crawl. Without one, there are shops near the stations in Takamatsu, and in towns like Kotohira at the foot of Konpira-san. A private “udon taxi” service also takes visitors to shops with a driver who has passed an udon knowledge test (drivers may not speak English).

See Kagawa in 2 Days and Climbing Konpira-san to plan your route.

FAQ

What does “hiyaatsu” mean?
Cold noodles in hot broth. Hiya is cold, atsu is hot; noodles first, then broth.

How much does Sanuki udon cost?
A simple bowl at a self-service shop is usually a few hundred yen. Kagawa residents spend about ¥550 per udon meal on average, including sides.

Do udon shops take credit cards?
Some do, but many small shops are cash only. Bring coins and small notes.

What time do udon shops close?
Many close in the early afternoon, or as soon as the noodles sell out. Go in the morning or before lunchtime ends.

Udon terms and the self-service steps checked against official Takamatsu City and Japan Tourism Agency information on 24 October 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.