Zentsuji Temple: Kukai’s Birthplace, the Five-Storey Pagoda and the Dark Kaidan Meguri (Temple 75)

Quick answer: Zentsuji is Temple 75 of the Shikoku pilgrimage and the birthplace of Kukai (Kobo Daishi), the monk who founded it. The temple grounds are free and huge, split into an East precinct with a 43-metre five-storey pagoda and a West precinct built on the site of Kukai’s family home. For ¥700 you can do the kaidan meguri — a walk through a pitch-dark passage — and see the treasure hall. It’s about 20 minutes’ walk from JR Zentsuji Station, and only 6 minutes by train from Kotohira (Konpira-san).

I live in Tokushima, where the Shikoku pilgrimage begins, and I’ve visited Zentsuji and walked its grounds. It’s one of the most important temples of the 88 — and an easy add-on to a trip to Konpira-san. Here’s what to see.

Why Zentsuji matters

Kukai (774–835), known after his death as Kobo Daishi, was born here into the Saeki family. He founded the Shingon school of Buddhism, and the 88-temple Shikoku pilgrimage follows in his footsteps.

The two precincts

The temple is split into two big precincts, joined by a short walk.

East precinct (東院)

• Said to have been founded by Kukai in 807, modelled on the temple in China where he studied.
• The Kondo (main hall) is the centre. The original buildings burned in 1558 and were rebuilt.
• The five-storey pagoda is about 43 metres tall — the third-tallest wooden pagoda in Japan. The current one, the fourth, was finished in 1902 and is an Important Cultural Property. Fire-safety work is planned until March 2027, so parts of it may be under construction when you visit.

West precinct (西院)

• Built on the site of the Saeki family home, where Kukai was born.
• The Miedo (Founder’s Hall) is the centre. This is where you buy tickets for the kaidan meguri and the treasure hall.

Kaidan meguri: the dark passage

Beneath the Miedo is a passage you walk through in complete darkness. I haven’t done it myself, but it’s one of Zentsuji’s best-known experiences.

• Ticket: ¥700 for adults (¥300 for elementary to high-school students). It covers the kaidan meguri and the treasure hall.
• Hours: 8:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30). Closed occasionally for events.
• If you don’t like the dark or tight spaces, you can skip it — the grounds are free.

For pilgrims

• Stamp office: 8:00–17:00.
• Stamp fees: ¥500 in a stamp book, ¥700 on a scroll, ¥300 on a pilgrim’s robe.

New to the pilgrimage? See Starting the Shikoku Pilgrimage in Tokushima.

Getting there

• By train: JR Zentsuji Station, then about 20 minutes on foot (or a 3-minute taxi). From Takamatsu, about an hour and ¥850, changing at Tadotsu.
• From Kotohira: 6 minutes by JR (¥240).
• By car: about 10 minutes from Zentsuji IC. Parking ¥300 (350 spaces, 8:00–18:00).

Combine it with Konpira-san and Marugame

Zentsuji, Kotohira and Marugame are all on the same side of Kagawa. A good day:

1. Morning: climb the steps of Konpira-san in Kotohira.
2. Afternoon: 6 minutes by train to Zentsuji.
3. Evening: roast chicken (honetsukidori) in Marugame.

See Climbing Konpira-san, Honetsukidori in Marugame and Kagawa in 2 Days.

Events (November 2026)

• 1–3 November: special viewing of the Niomon gate guardian statues.
• 3 November: the Kukai festival. (The National Treasure sutra usually shown on this day will not be shown in 2026.)

FAQ

Is Zentsuji free to visit?
Yes, the grounds are free. The kaidan meguri and treasure hall cost ¥700 together.

How long do I need?
Long enough to walk both precincts at an unhurried pace; add time if you do the kaidan meguri.

Is it really Kukai’s birthplace?
Yes — the West precinct stands on the site of his family’s home.

Can I visit Zentsuji and Konpira-san in one day?
Yes. They’re 6 minutes apart by train.

Fees and hours checked on the official Zentsuji website on 26 October 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.