Hiroshima

Miyoshi, Hiroshima: Winery, Spicy Karamen, a Yokai Museum and the Bihoku Winter Lights

Winter illuminations at Bihoku Hillside Park near Miyoshi, Hiroshima
Kai
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Quick answer: Miyoshi is a quiet river town in the mountains of northern Hiroshima Prefecture, about 1 hour 10 minutes by car or 1 hour 20 minutes by highway bus from Hiroshima city. Visit the Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery, try karamen, the local chilli noodles, and see Japan’s ghosts and monsters at the Yokai Museum. In summer there’s cormorant fishing on the river; in winter, the Bihoku Hillside Park illuminations (31 October 2026 – 11 January 2027) are about 15 minutes away. A car makes it much easier.

My family is from Hiroshima, and I’ve been to Miyoshi two or three times, always by car. It’s a long way from the usual tourist route, and it’s quiet, with few tourists. On my visits I went to the winery, ate karamen and local ramen, saw the winter illuminations at Bihoku Hillside Park, and even went fishing at a pay-to-fish pond nearby.

Getting to Miyoshi

Miyoshi town and its rivers seen from Mt. Takatani, Hiroshima

Miyoshi is a bit far from Hiroshima city, so plan it as a full day or an overnight trip.

TimeNotes
Car (Hiroshima & Chugoku Expressways)about 1 h 10 minEasiest. Needed for Bihoku Hillside Park
Highway bus (Hiroshima Bus Center → Miyoshi Station)about 1 h 20 min¥1,720
JR Geibi Line (rapid)about 1 h 20 minFew trains; local trains take about 1 h 50 min

Sights in Miyoshi are spread out, so I’d recommend a car. See Renting a Car in Shikoku — the same tips apply in Hiroshima.

Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery (TOMOÉ)

This Miyoshi winery makes wine under the TOMOÉ label. There’s a shop, a tasting corner, a café and a barbecue garden. I’ve visited it. Remember that the driver can’t drink — Japan has zero tolerance for drink-driving.

  • Hours: 9:30–17:30. Closed on the 2nd Wednesday of January and February, and 29 December – 1 January.
  • Next door is the Okuda Genso & Sayume Art Museum, which stays open until 21:00 on full-moon nights.

Karamen: Miyoshi’s chilli noodles

Karamen (唐麺) are noodles with chilli kneaded into the dough, invented by a local noodle maker. You’ll find them in karamen-yaki — a Miyoshi version of okonomiyaki — and other local dishes. I’ve tried karamen and Miyoshi’s local ramen.

See Hiroshima Okonomiyaki Guide for the city version.

Things I haven’t tried (yet)

These are Miyoshi’s other famous attractions. I haven’t done them myself, so here’s the official information.

Cormorant fishing (ukai) — summer only

Fishermen on wooden boats use trained cormorants to catch sweetfish on the Basen River, a tradition of about 450 years. You watch from a viewing boat at night.

  • Season: about 1 June – 10 September (the 2026 season has ended; check for 2027 dates).
  • No sailings on Tuesdays, Wednesdays or Thursdays.
  • Shared boat: ¥4,000 for adults. Book by phone (0824-63-9268).

Miyoshi Mononoke Museum (Yokai Museum)

Officially the Yumoto Koichi Memorial Japan Yokai Museum, it displays a collection of about 5,000 items about yokai — Japan’s ghosts, monsters and spirits. Miyoshi is the setting of a famous Edo-period yokai tale, the Ino Mononoke Roku.

  • Admission: ¥1,000 for adults.
  • Hours: 9:30–17:00. Closed Wednesdays.
  • Photos are allowed in most rooms (no flash).

Wani (shark) dishes

In this mountain region, shark — called wani locally — has long been eaten at festivals and New Year, because it kept well on the long journey inland from the coast. Some local restaurants serve it as sashimi or in burgers.

Winter: the Bihoku Hillside Park illuminations

Bihoku Hillside Park (国営備北丘陵公園) is a large national government park in neighbouring Shobara, about 15 minutes’ drive from Miyoshi-Higashi IC. Every winter it holds a large illumination event, and I’ve been to see it.

  • 2026–27 dates: 31 October 2026 – 11 January 2027.
  • Hours: 17:30–21:00 (from 17:45 in January).
  • Admission: ¥450 for adults (junior high and younger free).
  • Parking: ¥1,000 per car if you enter after 14:00.
  • Closed: Mondays (Tuesday if Monday is a holiday), and 31 December – 1 January.
  • It gets cold in the mountains in winter. Dress warmly.

See Setouchi in Winter for more winter ideas, and Taishakukyo and Shobara for more of the area.

Fishing

If you enjoy fishing, there are pay-to-fish ponds in the area, where you pay to fish for stocked fish. I’ve fished at one near Miyoshi. For sea fishing on the Inland Sea, see Seto Inland Sea Fishing Charters.

FAQ

Is Miyoshi worth visiting?
If you want a quiet side of Hiroshima with few tourists, it’s a good choice. It’s easiest by car.

How do I get to Miyoshi from Hiroshima?
About 1 hour 10 minutes by car, or 1 hour 20 minutes by highway bus from Hiroshima Bus Center.

When is cormorant fishing in Miyoshi?
In summer, roughly June to early September. No sailings Tuesday to Thursday.

When are the Bihoku illuminations?
31 October 2026 to 11 January 2027, from 17:30.

Opening hours, fees and dates checked on the official Miyoshi tourism, Yokai Museum and Bihoku Hillside Park websites on 24 October 2026.

ABOUT THE WRITER
Kaz
Kaz
Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima
I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.
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