Honetsukidori: Marugame’s Roast Chicken Leg (Oyadori vs Hinadori) and What Else to See in Marugame

Quick answer: Honetsukidori (骨付鳥) is a whole chicken leg roasted on the bone with garlic, pepper and salt, served sizzling with cabbage. It comes in two kinds: oyadori (older hen — chewy, deep flavour) and hinadori (young chicken — soft and juicy). If it’s your first time, start with hinadori. The dish is from Marugame in Kagawa, where Ikkaku has served it since 1952; expect about ¥1,100–1,250 a leg. Marugame Castle, with Japan’s tallest stone walls, is a 15-minute walk from the station.

Kagawa is famous for udon, but its other great dish is honetsukidori — a roast chicken leg on the bone. I’ve had it at Ikkaku in Marugame, and I’m on team hinadori, the softer one. Here’s how to order and what else to do in Marugame.

What is honetsukidori?

A whole chicken leg, seasoned with garlic, black pepper and salt, roasted until the skin is crisp and served on a hot steel plate in its own spicy, garlicky fat, with raw cabbage on the side.

Oyadori or hinadori?

When you order, you choose between two kinds:

Ikkaku itself recommends hinadori for first-timers, and that’s what I go for too. If you’re with friends, you can order one of each and compare.

How to eat it

• It’s often said that the cabbage tastes best dipped in the fat on the plate.
• Add a bowl of torimeshi (rice cooked with chicken) to make it a meal.

Where to eat it

Ikkaku (一鶴) opened in Marugame in 1952 and calls Marugame the birthplace of its honetsukidori. It has three shops in Marugame and two in Takamatsu, so you can also try it if you’re staying in Takamatsu. Other restaurants across Kagawa serve their own versions too.

What else to see in Marugame

Marugame Castle

One of only 12 castles in Japan with an original keep, and famous for having the tallest stone walls in Japan.

• Keep: ¥400 for adults (junior high and under free), 9:00–16:30 (last entry 16:00).
• Stone walls: part of the walls collapsed after heavy rain in October 2018. Restoration is still going on, with completion now planned for March 2031, so you’ll see some sections under repair.
• Access: about 15 minutes’ walk from JR Marugame Station. Free parking for about 50 cars.

Uchiwa fans

Marugame makes about 90% of Japan’s uchiwa (round paper fans) — an officially designated traditional craft. They make a light, easy souvenir.

Getting to Marugame

• From Takamatsu: JR Yosan Line, about 40 minutes on a local train, ¥630.
• Nearby: Marugame is on the way to Kotohira (Konpira-san) and Zentsuji, so it’s easy to fit into a western Kagawa day.

See Kagawa in 2 Days, Climbing Konpira-san, Zentsuji Temple and How to Order Sanuki Udon.

FAQ

What’s the difference between oyadori and hinadori?
Oyadori is from an older hen — chewy with deep flavour. Hinadori is young chicken — soft and juicy. Start with hinadori.

How much does it cost?
About ¥1,100–1,250 for one leg at Ikkaku (2026).

Can I eat it in Takamatsu?
Yes. Ikkaku has two shops in Takamatsu, and other restaurants serve it too.

Is Marugame Castle open while the walls are repaired?
Yes. The keep is open daily; some stone-wall sections are under restoration until about 2031.

Prices and castle details checked on the official Ikkaku and Marugame City websites on 26 October 2026.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.