Setouchi in 7 Days: Hiroshima to Tokushima by Train (with a Car When It Counts)

Quick answer: Start in Hiroshima, cross the Seto Inland Sea on the Shimanami Kaido, then work east through Shikoku: Matsuyama (Dogo Onsen), Takamatsu (Naoshima, Ritsurin, Konpira-san) and Tokushima (the Naruto whirlpools). Use trains for the long legs and rent a car only for the days where it really helps: the Shimanami Kaido and western Kagawa.

The Seto Inland Sea region, Setouchi, connects two of the most rewarding parts of Japan that most first-time visitors miss: Hiroshima on the main island, and Shikoku across the sea. I live in Tokushima, my family comes from Hiroshima, and this is the route I’d give a friend with one week.

Each day below links to a detailed guide.

The route at a glance

How to get around: train + a little car

• Trains handle the long legs well: Hiroshima–Onomichi, Matsuyama–Takamatsu, Takamatsu–Tokushima. Check whether a regional rail pass fits your plan.
• A rental car makes two days much better: the Shimanami Kaido (Day 3) and western Kagawa (Day 6), where Chichibugahama is hard to reach by public transport. Rent for those days only.
• Ferries for Miyajima and Naoshima.

Day 1: Hiroshima

Arrive in Hiroshima and spend the afternoon at the Peace Memorial Park and Museum. In the evening, have your first Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki at Okonomimura or Ekimae Hiroba by the station.

→ Hiroshima Okonomiyaki: How to Order and Where to Go First

Day 2: Miyajima

Take the JR train and JR ferry to Miyajima early in the morning. Check the tide table and try to see the great torii both floating at high tide and on foot at low tide. Lunch on anago-meshi. Stay on the island if you want a quiet evening, or return to Hiroshima.

→ Miyajima Day Trip: Tides, Timing and Whether to Stay Overnight

Day 3: The Shimanami Kaido

Take the train to Onomichi, pick up a rental car (or a rental bike if you’re a keen cyclist; one-way car drop-off in another prefecture usually costs extra), and cross the six islands to Imabari. Get off the expressway to explore: Kosanji Temple and lemons on Ikuchijima, roadside stations, and the Kirosan viewpoint over the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge. Continue to Matsuyama and check in at Dogo Onsen.

→ Shimanami Kaido: Bicycle or Car?

Day 4: Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama, then east to Takamatsu

Bathe at the historic Dogo Onsen Honkan in the early morning, then take the tram to Matsuyama Castle. Have tai-meshi for lunch, then take the limited express train east to Takamatsu (a few hours along the coast).

→ Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama in 1–2 Days

Day 5: Naoshima

Take the ferry from Takamatsu to Naoshima: Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkins, Benesse House Museum and, if you’ve booked, the Chichu Art Museum. Rent a bicycle on the island, and check your return ferry time first.

→ Naoshima and Shodoshima from Takamatsu

Day 6: Western Kagawa by car

Morning at Ritsurin Garden, then a self-service udon lunch (go before shops close in the early afternoon). Drive to Kotohira and climb the 785 steps to Konpira-san’s main shrine. End the day at Chichibugahama for sunset: if the tide is low and there’s no wind, you’ll get the famous mirror reflections.

→ Kagawa in 2 Days

Day 7: Tokushima and the Naruto whirlpools

Take the train from Takamatsu to Tokushima (about an hour). Head to Naruto, check the tide table, and take the large sightseeing boat out to the whirlpools under the Onaruto Bridge. From Naruto, highway buses and the road over Awaji Island lead straight to Kobe and Osaka, and Tokushima Airport has flights to Tokyo.

→ Naruto Whirlpools: Best Time, Boat or Bridge Walk

Have more time?

• +1 day: Iya Valley and Oboke Gorge — vine bridge and emerald gorge in western Tokushima. Take the sightseeing bus from Awa-Ikeda if you’re not used to mountain roads. → Iya Valley and Oboke: Bus Tour or Drive?
• +1 day: Shodoshima — olives and the Kankakei Gorge, by ferry from Takamatsu.
• Only have Shikoku? See Shikoku in 3 Days by Train.
• In August: Awa Odori — if you’re in Tokushima on August 12–15, don’t miss it. Book your hotel months ahead. → Awa Odori in Tokushima

When to go

Spring (April–May) and autumn (October–November) are the most comfortable, with autumn leaves in Iya and Kankakei. Summer is hot and humid but has Awa Odori. Winter is quiet and mild on the coast, but mountain roads can be icy.

FAQ

Can I do this in reverse? Yes. Starting in Tokushima works well if you’re coming from Osaka or Kobe.

Do I need a car? Not for the whole trip. Rent one for the Shimanami Kaido and western Kagawa.

Is 7 days enough? It covers the highlights at a comfortable pace. Add a day or two for Iya Valley or Shodoshima.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.