Setouchi Road Trip: 10–14 Days by Car from Hiroshima to Shikoku and Kansai

Quick answer: Start in Hiroshima, cross the Shimanami Kaido to Matsuyama, swing through the Iya Valley, Kotohira and Takamatsu, and finish in Tokushima and Naruto before crossing the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge to Kobe, Osaka or Kansai Airport. The core route takes 12 days; cut to 10 by skipping Kochi, or stretch to 14 with Kure, Uchiko or an extra island day. Leave the car behind for Miyajima and Naoshima — take the ferry on foot.

Our 7-day Setouchi itinerary uses trains, buses and ferries. This is the slower version: with a car, you can stop at island viewpoints, reach the Iya Valley without fighting bus timetables, and finish at a different airport from the one you flew into. I’ve driven to almost every place on this route myself — from Miyajimaguchi and the Shimanami islands to Dogo, the Iya Valley, Kotohira, Chichibugahama and Naruto. Kochi is the exception: I’ve included it as an option, based on research rather than my own trips.

Before you go

• Rent the car after Hiroshima, not before — you don’t need one in the city. See Renting a Car in Shikoku.
• One-way fee: returning the car in Kansai costs extra, often ¥30,000 or more. It’s usually still worth it for a trip this long, but get a quote first.
• Tolls: budget for the bridges — about ¥2,950 for the Shimanami Kaido and about ¥3,110 from Naruto to Kobe with ETC on weekdays. See Driving to Shikoku: the bridge tolls.
• Rhythm: keep driving to a few hours a day. The fun is in the stops.
• Stop at roadside stations (michi-no-eki). They have clean toilets, local produce and snacks, and they’re the easiest way to taste each area. It’s how I like to break up a drive.

The route at a glance

Driving times are estimates without traffic or stops.

Days 1–2: Hiroshima and Miyajima

Spend the first day in the city (see Hiroshima Day 2 and the okonomiyaki guide). On day 2, go to Miyajima — but don’t take a car to the island. Park at Miyajimaguchi or go by train, and take the 10-minute ferry. Itsukushima Shrine costs ¥300, and visitors to the island pay a ¥100 visitor tax. See my Miyajima guide.

Optional (+1 day): go east along the coast via Kure (naval museums) and Takehara (old merchant town). See Kure Day Trip.

Days 3–4: Onomichi and the Shimanami Kaido

Pick up your car and drive to Onomichi (about 1.5 hours on the Sanyo Expressway). The next day, cross the Shimanami Kaido to Imabari. It’s only about an hour without stops, but give it the whole day:

• Ikuchijima (Setoda): Kosanji Temple and lemon sweets.
• Omishima: Oyamazumi Shrine and its treasure hall of samurai armour (¥1,000).
• Kirosan viewpoint (Oshima): the classic view over the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge.

See Shimanami Kaido: Bicycle or Car?. Stay on the islands or in Imabari.

Days 5–6: Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen

About an hour from Imabari. Stay two nights in Dogo: bathe at the historic Dogo Onsen Honkan (from ¥700), walk the arcade in a yukata, and ride the ropeway up to Matsuyama Castle (keep ¥520, ropeway ¥520 return). See Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama.

Optional: the old towns of Uchiko and Ozu are under an hour south.

Day 7 (optional): Kochi

If you have 12+ days, Kochi is about two hours from Matsuyama by expressway. Highlights include Kochi Castle (¥500), Hirome Market (a food hall open into the evening) and, on Sundays, the long Sunday Market (6:00–15:00). Katsurahama beach is about 30 minutes from the city. I haven’t covered Kochi in depth on this site yet, so check local information before you go. To save a day, skip Kochi and drive from Matsuyama straight to the Iya Valley.

Day 8: Iya Valley and Oboke

The wild heart of Shikoku. Drive Route 32 to Oboke Gorge and take the sightseeing boat (about 30 minutes; around ¥1,800 — a fare change was announced in 2026, so check). Then head up to the Kazurabashi vine bridge (¥550, parking ¥500).

Mountain roads here are narrow — drive slowly and in daylight, and avoid heavy rain. See Iya Valley and Oboke and Driving in Rural Shikoku. Stay in the valley for the night.

Day 9: Kotohira and Chichibugahama

Drive about an hour to Kotohira and climb the 785 steps to the main hall of Konpira-san (allow about an hour each way). In the late afternoon, drive west to Chichibugahama for sunset. The famous “mirror” reflections need low tide around sunset and no wind — the official site publishes a calendar of the best days. Parking is free.

Going Kotohira → Chichibugahama → Takamatsu saves you backtracking. See Kagawa in 2 Days.

Days 10–11: Takamatsu and Naoshima

Visit Ritsurin Garden (¥500), one of Japan’s finest landscape gardens, and eat Sanuki udon.

For Naoshima, leave the car in Takamatsu and take the ferry on foot (¥680 each way, about 50 minutes). Taking a car costs over ¥14,000 return for a mid-size car, and the island is easy by bus or e-bike. Avoid Mondays — the art museums close. Book the Chichu Art Museum in advance. See Naoshima and Shodoshima.

Day 12: Tokushima and Naruto

About 1 hour 15 minutes to Tokushima. See an Awa Odori show at the Awa Odori Kaikan (from ¥1,300) and ride the ropeway up Mt. Bizan (¥1,500 return). Eat Tokushima ramen.

In Naruto, see the whirlpools from a boat (from ¥2,000) at the best tide time, and visit the Otsuka Museum of Art (¥3,300, closed Mondays). See Naruto Whirlpools.

Day 13: Over the bridge to Kansai

Cross the Onaruto Bridge and Awaji Island, then the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge. From Naruto it’s about 1.5 hours to Kobe and 2 hours to Osaka. Stop at Awaji Service Area for the view of the bridge, and drop the car in Kobe, Osaka or at Kansai Airport. See How to Get to Tokushima for the route in reverse.

10, 12 or 14 days?

• 10 days: skip Kochi and Naoshima’s second day; go Matsuyama → Iya → Kotohira directly.
• 12–13 days: the route above.
• 14 days: add Kure and Takehara, Uchiko and Ozu, or a night on Naoshima.

When to go

Spring (April–May) and autumn (October–November) are best for driving and walking. Avoid the rainy season and typhoon days for the mountain sections. See Best Time to Visit Setouchi.

FAQ

Can I do this route in reverse?
Yes — start in Kansai and finish in Hiroshima.

Do I need a car for the whole trip?
No. Pick it up after Hiroshima and use the ferry for Miyajima and Naoshima.

Is it worth paying the one-way fee?
For a trip this long, usually yes — it saves you driving back. But compare quotes from two or three companies.

Kaz

Tokushima local with family roots in Hiroshima

I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.