One Day in Tokushima City: Mt. Bizan, an Awa Odori Show, a River Cruise and Ramen (Local's Plan)
Kai
Setouchi Notes
Wakimachi Udatsu Street: Tokushima’s Indigo Merchant Town (and an Old Movie Theatre)
Kai
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Quick answer: Wakimachi (Mima City, western Tokushima) is an old indigo merchant town whose main street is lined with houses topped by udatsu — decorative firewalls that showed off a family’s wealth. It’s a nationally protected historic district, about 40 minutes from Tokushima city by expressway. Walk the street, visit the Yoshida-ke Residence (¥510), and step inside the Odeon-za, a 1934 movie theatre (¥200; closed Tuesdays). Park at the Ai Land Udatsu roadside station next to the street. Easy to combine with Oboke and the Iya Valley.
I live in Tokushima, and I’ve walked Wakimachi’s udatsu street and been inside the old Odeon-za theatre. It’s an easy stop on the way to Iya. Here’s what to see.
What are udatsu?
Look up at the houses on the main street and you’ll see thick plastered walls with little tiled roofs, sticking out at each end of the upper floor. These are udatsu. They began as firewalls to stop fire spreading between wooden houses, then became a way for merchants to show off: the grander your udatsu, the richer your family.
That’s the origin of a Japanese saying, udatsu ga agaranai — literally “your udatsu won’t go up” — meaning someone who never gets ahead in life.
A town built on indigo
Wakimachi grew as a castle town and then as a trading hub for indigo (ai), Tokushima’s famous dye. Boats carried indigo down the Yoshino River, and the merchants who grew rich built the houses you see today. In 1988 the street became a nationally protected historic district, with 85 traditional buildings from the mid-Edo period to the early Showa period.
What to see
The udatsu street
The main street is an easy stroll. I’ve walked it myself. Most houses are private homes or shops, so be considerate when taking photos.
Yoshida-ke Residence
The house of an indigo merchant family who started trading in 1792. You can walk through the main house and storehouses, including the old indigo store, and see how a wealthy merchant family lived.
- Admission: ¥510 for adults. 9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30).
- Closed: 27 December – 1 January.
Odeon-za
A wooden theatre built in 1934, a short walk from the udatsu street. After it appeared in a 1990s film by director Yoji Yamada, it was restored and reopened in 1999. Inside you can see the old stage and seats. I’ve been inside myself.
- Admission: ¥200 for adults.
- Hours: 9:00–17:00. Closed Tuesdays.
Indigo dyeing
At the town’s tourism exchange centre you can try indigo dyeing (10:00–16:00; booking recommended). For more on Tokushima indigo, see One Day in Tokushima City.
Getting there
- By car: about 10 minutes from Wakimachi IC on the Tokushima Expressway — about 40 minutes from Tokushima city. Park at the Michi-no-Eki Ai Land Udatsu roadside station, a minute’s walk from the street.
- By train: JR Tokushima Line to Anabuki Station (about 40 minutes from Tokushima by limited express), then about 10 minutes by taxi.
Combine it with Iya and Oboke
Wakimachi is on the way from Tokushima city to western Tokushima. A good plan:
- Morning: Wakimachi’s udatsu street and the Odeon-za (1–2 hours).
- Afternoon: continue west to Oboke and the Iya Valley.
- Overnight at a hot-spring inn in the valley.
See Iya Valley and Oboke and Where to Stay in Tokushima. Just west is Tsurugi town, home of Handa somen and another udatsu street.
FAQ
What is Wakimachi famous for?
Its udatsu street — merchant houses with decorative firewalls, built by indigo traders.
How long do I need?
About 1–2 hours for the street, the Yoshida-ke Residence and the Odeon-za.
Is the Odeon-za open every day?
No, it’s closed on Tuesdays.
How do I get there without a car?
JR to Anabuki Station, then about 10 minutes by taxi.
Opening hours and fees checked on the official Mima City website on 25 October 2026.
ABOUT THE WRITER
I live in Tokushima and my family is from Hiroshima, where I also used to live. I still go back several times a year. The guides here come from places I have actually been. Where I haven't tried something myself, I say so.
